The Evolution of Menswear: A Look Back at NYC’s First Menswear Runway to SS25 Trends

From the Birth of Menswear Fashion Week in NYC to the Latest Styles Defining Modern American Menswear

Fashion Week has always been a cultural touchstone, but when it comes to menswear, New York City made its mark in a historic way. The very first menswear runway show took place in the late 1980s, a bold move led by designer Calvin Klein. At the time, the men’s fashion scene was viewed as more conservative, focused on suits and tailoring, with little room for experimentation. Yet, this inaugural show turned heads. Klein’s daring collection helped break traditional boundaries, establishing NYC as a hub for progressive menswear design. What was once perceived as a niche market has since become a dynamic, multibillion-dollar industry with NYC as its epicenter.

Today, menswear is a driving force in the fashion economy of the United States. In 2023 alone, the men’s apparel market brought in approximately $120 billion, with continued growth expected in the coming years. Brands such as Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and Thom Browne lead the charge, blending innovation with timeless design. American men today are seeking style that offers both functionality and self-expression. In the corporate world, the modern man is gravitating toward a sophisticated yet relaxed aesthetic — soft tailoring, smart casual pieces, and versatile separates that move seamlessly from the boardroom to after-work events. For leisure, activewear and elevated basics reign supreme, offering comfort without sacrificing style.

As a fashion journalist, attending NYFW last week was a sensory overload of creativity, especially for the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collections. The energy in the city was palpable as designers showcased their latest visions for the season. From structured blazers to oversized outerwear, bold prints, and tech-driven fabrics, the collections offered something for every type of man.

As a seasoned fashion editor and the designer behind my own LATINX menswear brand, POTRO, I often find myself underwhelmed by the menswear runway shows at NYFW. In my estimation, these presentations lack the consistency, innovative design, and strong representation of American male style that one would expect from a global fashion capital like New York. The shows often feel disjointed, with many collections seemingly adding menswear looks as an afterthought rather than delivering cohesive, thoughtfully curated visions. In discussions with emerging menswear designers, it’s clear there is a disconnect between their creative ambitions and the institutional support guiding the industry’s direction.

I believe it’s time for the CFDA to take a stronger, more intentional stance on elevating American menswear. Appointing a dedicated menswear ambassador could be a pivotal step in fostering better communication between designers and industry leaders, while curating a more focused and impactful way to showcase menswear collections. As it stands, the menswear offerings at NYFW often fall short of their potential, and a reinvigorated approach is necessary to truly capture the essence of modern American style.

Here are 10 key trends that stood out during NYFW SS25 for menswear:

1. Neutral Tones with a Pop of Color: Beige, khaki, and stone remain staples, but splashes of vibrant orange and electric blue were woven into collections.
2. Relaxed Tailoring: Sharp suits with relaxed fits dominated the runway, signaling a shift from overly slim silhouettes.
3. Utility and Functionality: Cargo pants and multi-pocketed jackets made a comeback, blending fashion with practicality.
4. Technical Fabrics: From waterproof blazers to moisture-wicking shirts, tech-forward materials were a focal point.
5. Vintage Revival: Retro influences from the 1970s and 1980s resurfaced, including wide lapels and flared trousers.
6. Minimalist Sneakers: Clean, understated sneakers were paired with everything from suits to casualwear.
7. Bold Prints: Florals, abstract graphics, and geometric patterns made their mark, offering a fresh twist on the basics.
8. Layering with Sheer Fabrics: Lightweight and sheer materials were layered, providing texture and depth to simple silhouettes.
9. Gender Fluid Styles: Several collections blurred the lines between masculine and feminine aesthetics, embracing fluidity in fashion.
10. Artisanal Accessories: Handcrafted belts, leather satchels, and woven details brought an artisanal touch to otherwise modern looks.

Navigating the hustle and bustle of NYFW is an experience like no other. The city buzzes with energy as editors, influencers, and fashion insiders flock to various venues across Manhattan. The unrelenting September heat added an extra layer of intensity to the already fast-paced environment. This season saw a staggering 140 shows and presentations, solidifying NYFW’s importance as a global fashion event. The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America), established in 1962, played a vital role in ensuring that the week ran smoothly. This year, they even launched a luxury liner bus to ferry editors and influencers across the city, making transportation a little more manageable amid the chaos.

However, something felt different this season. There was an ominous sense of change in the air. Perhaps it was the growing presence of artificial intelligence that left attendees wondering how it might reshape fashion design and media. The landscape has already shifted dramatically — influencers and celebrities have overtaken traditional fashion editors in the front row, signaling a new hierarchy of influence. Sustainability, AI, and the faltering economy were the major topics of conversation, reflecting a broader cultural shift. And, with an election on the horizon, the intersection of fashion and politics felt ever more pronounced.

In conclusion, the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collections at NYFW reflected both the evolution of American menswear and the broader transformations happening in the fashion world. The winds of change are unmistakable, and as the industry continues to grapple with technology, sustainability, and a rapidly shifting economic landscape, one thing remains certain: menswear will continue to evolve, just as it has since that very first NYC runway show.